“You come tomorrow at 11am.” That’s what the clerk told me on Saturday.

“But tomorrow is Sunday,” I said.

“You come, no problem.”

And so, there I was at the gate of District Office on Sunday, 11am. Nobody was around but of course, it was Sunday.

Then I saw the very clerk; pretending not to see me.

Me: You told me yesterday to come at 11am. Here I am…

Him: OK, you wait.

He went inside and later called me in. There was this officer.

Officer: What do u want?

Me: I need a permit to go to Khardung La, sir.

Officer: Where you from?

Me: Malaysia.

Officer: It is Sunday today.

Me: I know, but he asked me to come today at 11am.

Officer: You need to go to an agent.

Me: Can’t I do it myself?

Officer: No, agent will do it for you. We are closed today, it’s Sunday. And road to Khardung La is closed on Monday. You can only go on Tuesday.

Me: OK. thank you.

Finding an agent to do it for me; this part tells me that I’m going to be robbed on a broad daylight.

Finding an agent sounds so simple, literally. But going around in this small town trying to find AN AGENT, was not.

Went to 4 agents and they were all giving me the same answers, “You need to have another person to come with you..another foreigner.”

Problem is I don’t carry anybody with me; it’s just me. The minimum requirement is 2 persons per submission. They told me to find any foreigner who is in the same situation like me, who needs another foreigner to apply for the permit.

I can’t just wait and pray for that somebody to come, can I?

So, I went around until I found this one agency.

“No problem, we can do it for you. Fill-in this form.”

So I filled in the form and later was told to come the next day at 9.30am.  And they need my passport to do it. OK to me.

All done and out I was for early dinner and came back fast for early bed. Warmed myself under thick blanket. It was snowing outside and I was shivering like crazy. Crazy that my teeth chattered. But funny thing was, I slept to the sound it.

– – – – – – – – – – – – –

Had a good of everything in the freezing temperature; good rest, good sleep and good hot shower. Went out for breakfast and later to the agency and waited till 9.45am. Office still closed. A guy from shop next door told me to go and have some tea and come back in half hour. This is Indian time, he said. Bummer! I totally forgot about that.

After some tea, I went to the agency again. “Sorry brother, we can’t do it for you. You have to find another agent,” the agent said. D’oh!

Process started all over again. Went to search another agent and finally found one who was willing to do it. Slightly higher fee…but that’s OK with me as long I get my permit. “You come back at 4pm. Leave your passport with me and fill up this form,” he instructed. I obeyed and off I went roaming about the small town for some pictures. I wanted to go and get some cash but as I didn’t have my passport, I have to wait until 4pm.

And there was the rain again and light snow.

Went to collect my permit and passport. Finally! Was in a list with a stranger but that’s so OK long as I got my permit. Weehoo!

Gonna be here for few days more…got my financial issue settled.

Back in my room and all set for the next journey.

Here is me, Khoda Hafez.

Srinagar to Kargil

Again, the rain has been falling since last night. I waited till 9 am; from heavy it goes to drizzle. I can do it in the slow rain as I wouldn’t want to wait another day here. Packed up and in 10 minutes, was rolling in light drizzle. The cloud seemed breaking up but I predicted that it should be ok along the way. But after 20km, my prediction was so wrong…the rain became more heavier. 

Saw some small stalls by the roadside and I stopped for a break…well, to take cover from the heavy rain actually. Cloaked 50km in 2 hours. Too slow, but I think it was good; safe ride uphill.

Again, I have been bugged by kids asking for money. At first I just ignored them but when one of them acted to the extreme, like trying to grab my helmet, I just snapped and my plastic chair flew straight at him. He fell, dropped my helmet and ran away. Thiefs.

Locals just look as if nothing happened. And some even have the guts to scratch on my helmet. Lucky it didn’t break the visor.

Finished my drink and light snack (didn’t know what was it) and moved on riding. It was really hard to ascend the steep mountains in rain and muddy ice. Watch the video and you will know.  But believe me that the view was worth it. Lil G was working really hard today. Pushed her to the limit.

Along the way Lil G had some difficulity breathing. At times, in thin air, she just died. Air starvation. It’s ok if it was downhill but uphill among the big trucks is no fun at all.

Along the way in the heavy rain I met a group of local riders of Royal Einfield; all soaked and shivering. Short break with them before I moved on.

Reached Kargil at about 7pm.  Almost dark.

Wet and cold as I was looking for a room and the whole town went dark. Power was gone again. Took me more than an hour to find a room within my budget in the dark. And nothing can be done in this darkness. Had my dinner and G is sleeping outside in the cold.

Enjoy the short video of me in the rain, ice and what ever in-between.

Khoda Hafez

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Kargil to Leh

Today I started early. Trying to catch the morning sun and morning ride. Beautiful scenery. Morning sun was nice but it didn’t get me warm at this altitude. Pretty slow and easy ride though. By 12 noon, was not even halfway. Was just ascending higher and higher and higher all the way until I reached the highest peak.  G had to be re-fueled twice. Uphill riding like this she drank too much fuel.. Suprisingly today she performed really well. Not once she died of air starvation, even at almost 14000ft. After that most of it was downhill. Guess I started early and managed to avoid those trails of big trucks.

Entered Leh almost 4pm.

Leh is a beautiful small town way up high on the mountain, 3500meter above sea level. Though it is very far away, really worth it. Got a small simple room with hot shower near old bazaar. And wonderful view from the roof. It’s not just the cold here in Leh, it’s the chilly wind that makes me shiver. Am really shivering while typing this. Wearing layers of all the clothes I have with me, I am still shivering. Chilled to the bone. Hahaha.

Went around this small town trying to get myself familiar to where I stay and where I will be heading. Time to grab a bite. Hungry. Saw a local food joint filled with people. Must be nice if it’s full. Masala tea and garlic fried rice to warm me this evening.

I have been on the road too long I guess that I lost track what day it is. I need to get a permit to go to Khardung La tomorrow. Khardung La is the highest passable road on earth.

And silly me, tomorrow is Sunday. District office that issues the permit is closed. Gotta wait till Monday I guess. Another extra day stay for me.

Found few cyber cafes here but the fee were way out of my budget.. Cost me more than a meal for an hour.. Guess I have to wait till I am back in Srinagar.

Getting dark and too cold for me. Need good hot shower and hit the bed.

Happy sunday.Khoda Hafez