Srinagar to Kargil

Again, the rain has been falling since last night. I waited till 9 am; from heavy it goes to drizzle. I can do it in the slow rain as I wouldn’t want to wait another day here. Packed up and in 10 minutes, was rolling in light drizzle. The cloud seemed breaking up but I predicted that it should be ok along the way. But after 20km, my prediction was so wrong…the rain became more heavier. 

Saw some small stalls by the roadside and I stopped for a break…well, to take cover from the heavy rain actually. Cloaked 50km in 2 hours. Too slow, but I think it was good; safe ride uphill.

Again, I have been bugged by kids asking for money. At first I just ignored them but when one of them acted to the extreme, like trying to grab my helmet, I just snapped and my plastic chair flew straight at him. He fell, dropped my helmet and ran away. Thiefs.

Locals just look as if nothing happened. And some even have the guts to scratch on my helmet. Lucky it didn’t break the visor.

Finished my drink and light snack (didn’t know what was it) and moved on riding. It was really hard to ascend the steep mountains in rain and muddy ice. Watch the video and you will know.  But believe me that the view was worth it. Lil G was working really hard today. Pushed her to the limit.

Along the way Lil G had some difficulity breathing. At times, in thin air, she just died. Air starvation. It’s ok if it was downhill but uphill among the big trucks is no fun at all.

Along the way in the heavy rain I met a group of local riders of Royal Einfield; all soaked and shivering. Short break with them before I moved on.

Reached Kargil at about 7pm.  Almost dark.

Wet and cold as I was looking for a room and the whole town went dark. Power was gone again. Took me more than an hour to find a room within my budget in the dark. And nothing can be done in this darkness. Had my dinner and G is sleeping outside in the cold.

Enjoy the short video of me in the rain, ice and what ever in-between.

Khoda Hafez

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Kargil to Leh

Today I started early. Trying to catch the morning sun and morning ride. Beautiful scenery. Morning sun was nice but it didn’t get me warm at this altitude. Pretty slow and easy ride though. By 12 noon, was not even halfway. Was just ascending higher and higher and higher all the way until I reached the highest peak.  G had to be re-fueled twice. Uphill riding like this she drank too much fuel.. Suprisingly today she performed really well. Not once she died of air starvation, even at almost 14000ft. After that most of it was downhill. Guess I started early and managed to avoid those trails of big trucks.

Entered Leh almost 4pm.

Leh is a beautiful small town way up high on the mountain, 3500meter above sea level. Though it is very far away, really worth it. Got a small simple room with hot shower near old bazaar. And wonderful view from the roof. It’s not just the cold here in Leh, it’s the chilly wind that makes me shiver. Am really shivering while typing this. Wearing layers of all the clothes I have with me, I am still shivering. Chilled to the bone. Hahaha.

Went around this small town trying to get myself familiar to where I stay and where I will be heading. Time to grab a bite. Hungry. Saw a local food joint filled with people. Must be nice if it’s full. Masala tea and garlic fried rice to warm me this evening.

I have been on the road too long I guess that I lost track what day it is. I need to get a permit to go to Khardung La tomorrow. Khardung La is the highest passable road on earth.

And silly me, tomorrow is Sunday. District office that issues the permit is closed. Gotta wait till Monday I guess. Another extra day stay for me.

Found few cyber cafes here but the fee were way out of my budget.. Cost me more than a meal for an hour.. Guess I have to wait till I am back in Srinagar.

Getting dark and too cold for me. Need good hot shower and hit the bed.

Happy sunday.Khoda Hafez

It was 9.00 am and the rain has not stop since the day I arrived. I was up since 5.00 am. It slowed down a bit later and I went down to have a look at Lil G. She’s fine and getting all the attention from the locals. I oiled her chain and filled up some air in the rubber. Routine check;  I need new rear tyre soon as it is getting bold in the centre.

As I was doing my stuff, local asked me same stuff, how much, how fast, how many km a liter, you know, the same old questions.

Then came this guy, he has been observing me and the bike for a while.

Man: You ride this from Malaysia?

Me: Yes.

Man: Alone?

Me: Yes

Man: You going to Ladakh with this?

Me: Yeah.

Man: Sell me this bike when you come back next week.

Me: Huh! What do you mean?

Man: If this bike can survive from Malaysia and made it to Ladakh and come back, I want this bike. Must b really strong and powerful..with disc brakes and tubeless tyres. What else can I ask for fr a small bike?

I just smile.

Man: seriously, sell me the bike and you can fly home.

Me: Thanks for the offer, but its not for sale.

Man: Why don’t Indians make such a bike? (asking people around him)

Me: I don’t know brother, but u can start with one.

– – – – – – – – – – –

Went up and changed. And off to Srinagar town.

Went to a local tourist office to get some local detail map of Jammu-Kashmir. Again as I parked the bike, people start asking me same questions and few giving me the same offer. Sell them the bike once I am done with the trip to Ladakh.

“Not for sale, mister,” I told them each time.

Met with the tourist officer and got my map. Was advised to go to foreigner registration office and get myself registered. Went there and met the officers.

First impression I got when I told them I come from Malaysia on a bike was a salute. They saluted me when they saw Lil G . Offered me chai and had some chat. Wonderful people they are. Shared some local info with me and was advised that meteorologist office has issued an alert on precautious on the mountains driving due to storm and rain for the next few days. This is the hottest summer and the coldest summer in india ever, they told me. Hottest is cities down south and coldest up in Jammu-Kashmir. Its snowing up here in summer.

What can I say. With the rain and un predictable weather, things does happen.

He advises me to stay few days before heading up the mountains. He suggested me few places to go and visit in town. So off I go.

Went for ride around the city. Srinagar is a city stands on old buildings. Most of the old buildings still survived and has that rustic and classic look. If only they keep and maintain this place…

Later, off to the lakeside to snap some pic. Still, having the difficulity to snap some pic. There will always be people hogging you and ask u questions; in Hindi! And they just love to stand in front of my camera.

Went to some temples and I got really frustated. Went all the way uphill and then I was told that no cameras, phones or any recordings allowed. Most places don’t allow people to take pictures and are fully-guarded with soldiers. Hmmm. In areas where you can take pictures, you will be hogged and in place where people can’t hog you,  you cannot take pictures.

Such is life.

I guess it’s better for me just to head to the cybercafe near where I stay; emptying my card as well as sending pictures home. Got everything hooked to their PC and as I was about to start, there goes the power.

“This is India my friend. We have nuclear, our own car, huge power dam but we don’t have enough electricity for the people,” the owner tells me while laughing.

I just smiled and walked out.

Again same question about Lil G. In total for that day, 9 people wanted her, to buy her with many offers. No. She is mine.

Waited for almost an hour before the power finally came back. Well , it took a while to transfer and upload. Guess u guys had the pictures before this story comes. Been writing my stories on my BB and to bad I couldn’t find a place with a wifi for me to transfer from BB to my blog’s server.

Anyway, I spent two hours in the cybercafe; replying e-mails and responding to comments in my blog.

Later, off me go to grab a bite. Had chicken masala punjab style while praying that it doesn’t gives me ‘masalah’ the next day. Hahaha.

Khoda Hafez.